This feeding station is made from old storage stool. It’s fully refurbished, damaged pieces of plywood has been replaced and a new one added for the feeding shelf.
The shelf and inside of the storage is covered with a fabric that is used in nursery, so it’s easy to clean.
There’s a scratching post on the top that can be unscrewed and replaced if needed. The cushion is made out of foam and covered with cotton fabric on sides, fleece on the top and nursery fabric on the bottom. There’s a zipper sewed in and velcro, so the cushion won’t fell or slide off.
Whole piece is painted with Cuprinol pet safe paint, color – sage and distressed just a little bit
P.S. No cat was harmed during photo-shoot, ’cause it’s photoshoped (as you probably see
Check out other pictures on my Facebook page 🙂
And this is how it looked before makeover:
Preparing for painting is a pain in the rear, I know. But it’s essential!
Lately you can read a lot about paints that don’t need sanding or priming. It may be true but only if your piece is in a very good condition – it don’t have any cracks, stains, it’s not smelly or glossy – as you probably know, it’s not the case in most of used furniture.
I’m not really fond of this part of the makeover. It takes a lot of time, lot more than painting itself, but if you want to have a nice, even and long lasting finish, you just have to do it 🙂 Try to have a good fun, play some good music and think about the end result 😉
It’s always the first step for me. No matter what type of prep work you’ll have to do later (filling, priming, replacing, reorganizing and all other -ings), do sanding first – then you’ll see what kind of wood you’re dealing with, does it need to be replaced or fixed or maybe it’s so beautiful, that you won’t want it to be covered.
The best way to do it is to use a detail sander – you don’t need any experience, it’s very easy to use. If you don’t have it and want to refurbish only one piece of furniture, use a sanding paper – it will take longer but you’ll get same result as with a power tool. Of course even with a sander you’ll have to use sanding paper at some point – for details, corners and so on.
For initial sanding you can use medium grit paper (60-80) but always finish with fine one for best results (100-220). Just remember to be careful, medium grit paper can leave scratches that will be hard to remove.
Clean all the surfaces with a slightly damp cloth.
And last but not least: ALWAYS use a dust mask.
P.S. OK, there’s one thing that I can think of that you have to do before sanding – removing loose veneer if you have a piece with one. And here is a tutorial from another blog – here.
Now it’s time grab your filler and fix all the cracks, gaps, wood knots, dents, scratches and gouges. I’m using ready-to-use wood filler, that can be painted and nailed/screwed – this bit is very important, especially when you have to replace the hinges, for example.
Apply the filler and work it well into the damage – for deeper ones build it up in layers, let it dry and sand off the excess.
It may seem like a waste of time, after all you have to put the same effort into it as for painting, but it’s a necessary thing.
Primer will fill the grains and make finish coat smoother, it blocks stains, bleeding and prevent the paint from peeling off after some time. It’s a must-do with a bare wood, stripped one, glossy or smelly surfaces, changing from dark to light color – and even if you think that there’s no need for using the primer, do it anyway 😉
There are basically two types of primers.
– Oil-based which is good for bleeding surfaces but it dries slowly and it’s odorous – be sure that your workplace area is well ventilated and there are no kids and pets around.
– Water-based. Dries quickly, it’s odorless but it may not block the stains (I use this one in most cases).
If you have a piece that have only couple of stains or knots (they’ll probably bleed through), use shellac on those, and paint the rest with a water-based primer.
One coat of primer is usually all you need. When dry, sand it with fine sandpaper, especially if you use water-based primer (it can rise the wood grain). Clean the surfaces with a damp cloth.
Now that we’re finished with preparing it’s time to paint! 🙂
This fully refurbished ottoman is perfect for every bedroom, entrance hall, living room, kids room, hallway… have I missed something? You can put it wherever you like, it will look awesome!
The wooden box i dyed in white, painted inside in white as well, with yellow painted drawers. Fabric used for upholstery is good quality cotton with fun retro design.
If you want to know how to refurbish a piece like this, check out this tutorial.
Things you’ll need:
You can use this technique for upholstering headboards, benches, coffee tables – whatever you like. In this tutorial I’ll show you how to do the tufting on a lid of a ottoman.
1. Unscrew the hinges and take of the lid.
Now you have to plan the diamond tufting. It should consist of same size rhombuses. Make a sketch on a piece of paper, determine how many buttons and tufts you can fit in and then transfer the pattern on a lid surface. Drill the holes in the points of lines intersections.
If you are using foam for filling, draw the pattern on a foam, make holes in it, then put the foam on the lid, mark corners of rhombuses and drill the holes (thicker the foam, deeper the tufts will be).
2. If you’re using fiber filling (a took mine from duvet ^^) cut out 4-5 layers – every next one should be a little bit larger than previous one. Put the filling on the lid and fasten it with couple of staples to the lid, just to prevent it from moving.
3. Cut out the fabric. You have to add at least 15-20cm on each side (or more, it depends on filling thickness).
4. Take a strong thread and a big needle, tie a knot on the thread next to the button and thread a needle on the other end. You can use regular shank buttons or upholstery cover buttons.
Put the buttoned needle through the hole and pull it out from the other side. Anchor the button in place by stapling the thread (zig-zag).
Remember to refine the folding of the fabric during the process and to keep the fabric grains straight.
5. Now it’s time to pull the fabric tight around the edges and secure it with staple gun. First do it quite roughly to position the fabric and arrange the fold properly. Then staple the fabric all around.
After that, do the corners. Fold the fabric neatly and secure with staples.
6. Because the underside of the lid will be visible when opened, you have to cover the fabric edges and staples. To do that, cut out rectangular sheet from plywood, hardboard, dense thin foam or whatever that will do the job, and cover it with fabric. Then attach it to the lid with glue or screws. I had to screw additionally two planks, to reinforce the seat.
Here’s a video tutorial:
Done! Your diamond tufting is ready, now let’s do the ottoman’s box 🙂
Dyeing and painting wooden box
NOTE: after every coat of paint or varnish wait at least(!) one hour before applying another coat.
1. Clean all surfaces with sander or sandpaper. Remember to wear a mask – old paints and varnishes can be toxic and even non-toxic dust is really nasty. Clean the surfaces with a damp cloth and wait for it to dry.
2. If your piece of furniture is fairly decent and not too old, you don’t have to make any improvements, you can already paint the whole thing in one color.
If not, fill most obvious gaps and dents with wood filler and level them with sandpaper. Then apply one coat of paint to see if you missed any other, less obvious gaps and fill them as well.
The easiest way to apply the filler is with your finger, pushing the filler into the gap and taking off the excess with a cloth.
3. In my case I wanted to paint inside of the drawers in light yellow, the bottom and inside of the box in solid white and the outside of the box dye white. If you want to use different color paints, you have to paint the box gradually, using masking tapes.
Here is a short tutorial on how to use wood dye
4. Secure all the surfaces with wax or varnish (at least two layers). I used varnish with matt finish.
5. Screw back the lid to the box.